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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 6:35 pm 
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I searched for various methods for laminating several fine multi-line perflings together and did not find anything. I believe that it would be easier to laminate veneer sheets and cut my own perflings, but I have some existing multi-line perflings that I would like to use by combining them. What method(s) have you found to be effective (including specific glue and set-up)?

Thanks for your help.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 6:50 pm 
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If I could take on, what are the best practices when cutting laminating sheets into purfling strips?


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 7:04 pm 
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I hammer veneer them using HHG. Cut into strips on the Bandsaw.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 9:11 pm 
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I've made veneered purfling before, I use my fret slotting blade on my table saw to cut them. Very little waste and a nice fine cut.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 9:40 pm 
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I know how to make veneered perflings for cutting on the bandsaw. There are some good posts already regarding this. But what are some approaches/methods for "how to laminate existing perflings". Any experience shared here would be appreciated.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2013 10:42 pm 
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I just glue them together with fish glue while I am installing them. I sort of make a fan of the purflings strips, brush glue on them and then use my fingers to pull them together. I then use them either in a slot on the top while making a rosette or clamped with my bindings. This seems to work as well as using the already glued ones.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 1:13 am 
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Ed, Stew Mac sells a tool for laminating them. I have it and it works well.


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These users thanked the author James Orr for the post: Ed Haney (Mon Dec 02, 2013 9:53 am)
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 9:31 am 
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I glued up .010" W/B/W fiberboard veneers for my latest build. I used Titebond which worked ok except the moisture in the glue caused the sheets to curl up. Not a big deal you just have to work fast so it doesn't curl up so much you can't get it all clamped up. Thicker veneer sheet won't curl as much. I cut off 2" strips of veneer sheets, lay down Titebond and spread it out, sandwich the glue up between wax paper and clamp with long flat clamp caul to the edge of a flat bench. When the glue dries cut purfling strips on the band saw (or a thin kerf blade on the table saw sounds like a good idea, Rod).

As a side note, I did not have any luck getting the fiber purflings to glue to celluloid binding up using Weld-On (from Stew Mac). All glue ups came undone and I had to hastily redo with super glue. Next time I will try Duco cement which I have heard positive praise about.

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 10:27 am 
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James Orr wrote:
Ed, Stew Mac sells a tool for laminating them. I have it and it works well.


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Thanks James.

Following you message I looked at the Stew Mac binding laminator. It says on the site that it is for platic bindings. I called them and they said that they did not know of anyone using it for wooden or fiber bindings and did not recommend it.

I should have been clearer to say that I am only using wood or fiber bindings and that my actual goal right now is to laminate the bindings for a backstrip. Since a backstrip is straight and will not have to bend when installing, I will avoid likely bending problems associated with using a lamination for a binding.

I think that the Stew Mac idea could be adapted for laminating a straight backstrip.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 2:45 pm 
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Ed Haney wrote:
James Orr wrote:
Ed, Stew Mac sells a tool for laminating them. I have it and it works well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Thanks James.

Following you message I looked at the Stew Mac binding laminator. It says on the site that it is for platic bindings. I called them and they said that they did not know of anyone using it for wooden or fiber bindings and did not recommend it.

I should have been clearer to say that I am only using wood or fiber bindings and that my actual goal right now is to laminate the bindings for a backstrip. Since a backstrip is straight and will not have to bend when installing, I will avoid likely bending problems associated with using a lamination for a binding.

I think that the Stew Mac idea could be adapted for laminating a straight backstrip.


It isn't clear to me why you would need to pre-laminate the purflings for a backstrip - can't everything just be stacked up on the fly?

I do wonder about laminating purflings to the bottoms of binding strips, which will then get pre-bent on the side bender. I'm thinking I'll lay them up with the wide side of the binding laying down flat, and then compress the entire length of the strip between two plastic-covered boards. There has to be an easier way.
(edit: I know the easier way is to lay up a wider board with a thickness = binding strip height, laminate veneer sheets to that, and then rip individual bindings off the side of the board, but I'm dealing with already cut binding strips here.)

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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 5:35 pm 
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If for some reason I had to lay up some purf lines like this I would cut a slot in
a scrap board or mdf. so that everything fits with a nice friction fit, lay down a
piece of plastic wrap (saran wrap etc.), add glue and push everything into the slot.
Let dry and there it is.
Ken



These users thanked the author Ken Lewis for the post (total 2): Ed Haney (Mon Dec 02, 2013 7:44 pm) • Jim Kirby (Mon Dec 02, 2013 5:46 pm)
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 7:50 pm 
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First name: Ed
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Jim Kirby wrote:

It isn't clear to me why you would need to pre-laminate the purflings for a backstrip - can't everything just be stacked up on the fly?


Jim,
My preferred method for backstrips is to inlay them. I believe that this yields a stronger back joint compared to having additional joints completely through the back resulting from the sandwich method, expecially if it a sandwich of several bindings.
Ed


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 7:52 pm 
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klewis wrote:
If for some reason I had to lay up some purf lines like this I would cut a slot in
a scrap board or mdf. so that everything fits with a nice friction fit, lay down a
piece of plastic wrap (saran wrap etc.), add glue and push everything into the slot.
Let dry and there it is.
Ken


Nice simple idea, Ken. Thanks a lot for the input.


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 02, 2013 9:33 pm 
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Ed in the 2002 issue of the GAL eugene clark discusses in 2 issues, different ways that he laminates the purfling strips for his rosettes. check out his laminating process, simple/effective.. I laminate several thin pieces .022 to 2-3in wide strips of different coloured veneer to a thicker solid piece .100 or thicker to make a laminated sandwich , which can be ripped on bandsaw or TS.


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